Girona: the ancient, the modern and the artisan

Girona looking down on the University from the city walls
Girona looking down on the University from the city walls
V McGarvey cc by


Artisan: worker that does skilled work with their hands, from French artisan, from Medieval Latin *artītiānus, from Latin artītus (“skilled”), past participle of artiō (“I instruct in arts”), from ars (“art, skill”).

Girona is a truly beautiful city,  stunning buildings with breathtaking views. The artisanal craftsmanship can be found around most corners in this historic town, in the iron encrusted doors, the ornate balconies and the stonework of the walls and steps.  Tourist attraction recommendations, are the Jewish Quarter, the Eiffel Bridge, the Onyar River, Girona Cathedral, Placa Independencia, Arab Baths and its Medieval Walls. You can see all of these in a day, be warned, in August the humidity is high as well as the heat and I don't think I have felt anything so intense before apart from insulated Barcelona where we finished our trip. I would also recommend staying longer than a day, not only because of the heat but to see what else Girona has to offer other than the expected.

The intent of my blog is to focus on the unusual and unexpected encounters with the urban everyday.  It is not particularly challenging to find descriptions of Girona's historic attractions, wonderful as they are, there is much more to this city.  Girona is based in Catalonia, and it is unavoidable to notice the importance of Catalonian culture and independence, to some of its people. You will see the Catalonian flag flying on most balconies, also yellow ribbons on street corners supporting pro-independence jailed politicians.  You will find menus in Spanish and Catalan, and Catalonians are presently battling for the preservation of the Catalan language, I witnessed a peaceful demonstration during my stay. 

Freedom political prisoners banner Girona
Freedom political prisoners banner Girona
V McGarvey cc by

Like many towns and cities in Spain, Girona is having to wrestle with the fallout and impact of the increase in tourists like me, resulting in the pressure on housing and the displacing of local people. The renovated apartment that we stayed in looked out onto the Rambla de la Llibertat with its low ceilings and arches which runs parallel with the Onyar, developed in the 13th century to hold the market. Just around the corner, there was a banner.

 "Dear visitors, be aware every tourist apartment is a home taken away from the local people".

 As tourists, we need to reflect on this when we are travelling, in particular, how can we ethically support an important part of Spain's economy. I am still trying to find the answer.

Tourist apartments for local people banner
Tourist apartments for local people banner
V McGarvey cc by

The vocal banners and illustrations of pro-independence are not intimidating, it encourages visitors to Girona to look beyond the historical facades, these protests are as much an integrated part of Girona's Catalonian culture as the Medieval Walls and Cathedral. There are modern cultural touches and alternatives to the historical. The word artisan crops up in many places in Girona, a word that seems to have become a modern-day appropriated description to define alternative and independent.  The impact of the artisan continues to seam through the city, in its restaurants, cafes, bars and craft shops. There is an excellent craft beer bar Kerunta, with Catalonian beers on the menu. The Cinema Museum displays the Tomàs Mallol Collection,  an interactive presentation of 400 years of moving image history. Where I even found a Wedgwood reference (being a Stokie I'm always on the lookout), Thomas Wedgwood son of Josiah who

"1802 Obtained non-permanent copies of objects profiles by contacting them with a leaf impregnating a silver nitrant solution and exposing them to sunlight" (Rough translations from Catalan)

Early camera at the Cinema Museum Girona
Early camera at the Cinema Museum Girona
V McGarvey cc by

Thomas Wedgwood Reference
Thomas Wedgwood Reference
V McGarvey
For me possibly the most poignant example of an artisanal cultural attraction is the Libreria Cafè - which is a cafe, bar, and bookshop, in the old town. Decorated with loose-leaf pages hanging from the ceiling, it is illustrative of Girona, independent, local and welcoming. Whilst we were there a member of the bar staff came up to us and handed us a flyer, advertising a small exhibition in the bar "The Waiter that Makes Other Things". The waiter was the waiter who had been serving us and he is also a glass artist working with recycled glass.


Juan's recycled bottle dish Libreria Cafe
V McGarve cc by

The flyer said

"As you see, Juan is a waiter that makes other things. Or maybe he is a glass artist that also works as a waiter"

It implied that you should look beyond what you immediately see, as is the case with Girona.

"As you see Girona is a historical city with a contemporary heart or maybe Girona is a contemporary city with an historical heart."

Corner of an Artisan Market Pont de L'Areny Girona
Corner of an Artisan Market Pont de L'Areny Girona
V McGarvey cc by